Kerala has always been known as a land of a lifetime. The
distinctive culture, unspoiled tropical beauty, pristine backwaters of Allepy, relaxing
Ayurvedic retreat centers and divine food have enchanted many visitors since
ages. Located in the southern most part of India, the coastal state is rightly
referred to as “God’s own country”. In particular, the whole of Kerala is
commonly celebrated for its deep rooted cultural history, magnificent temple
festivals, tranquility of backwaters, lush greenery of nature and world famous
spices.
 Kerala - God's Own Country |
An expedition or holiday to Kerala
always begins from the beautiful coastal city of Fort Kochi. Known as the
‘Gateway to Kerala’ the captivating coastal city, its towns and mini islands
have always welcomed the guests with a surprise. What is the hidden surprise
Fort Kochi offers? Well, it comes across as somewhat a surprise for first time
visitors, as in how this small little city maintains an electric blend of
Indo-European-Arab-Portuguese way of life till date.
The vibrancy of Fort Kochi and
absolute distinctiveness has always caught my curious eye. As it also happens
to be my native, the rich diversity and unique character has been easier to
identify with. Growing up, my idea of a perfect muse for a geographical and
cultural stimulant to explore was my native Fort Kochi. During the vacations, I
would run back to Fort Kochi as it packed a perfect punch for me to be acquainted
with new stories of its rich legacy. Since then whenever in Kochi, I always
take time to comb the neighborhoods of Kochi for the Chinese fishing nets among
other techniques, Portuguese styled bungalows, Anglo-Indian and Jew households,
churches and villas tucked in the quaint bylanes.
The picturesque Portuguese styled villas
It
has certainly taken time for me to understand the reason behind Fort Kochi’s
individuality, but finally I do have a basic idea. Fort Kochi has a slightly
complex history of influence and developments with every historian having a
different version. The origins of Fort Kochi can be traced back to 700-650
years ago. Kerala had been trading in spice with Chinese, Arabs and Portuguese
since time in memorial. In 1341 when Tsunami hit the trade activities of
Kodungallur, the spice traders shifted base to Fort Kochi as the new centre for
all shipping activities. Fort Cochin was a tiny fishing village by then. The
huge fishing nets known as Cheena-vala (Chinese nets) are said to be built by
Chinese as early as 14th century. Infact the name Cochin or Kochin
too is derived from Chinese name Co-Chin which means like - China.
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Chinese Fishing Nets - 'Cheena-vala'
Kerala and
Fort Kochi were birthplace of Christianity in India; it has one of the early
Christians of India and also the Arab Christians or Jewish Christians who had
migrated to Kerala in early 5th-6th century. They brought
with them their own set of Arab and Jewish traditions which later were
incorporated into local Christian culture. The Jewish established a town called
‘Jew Town’ at Mattancherry. It was a town bustling with spice trade by
prominent Jewish traders. The close-knit Jewish community established their
very own niche in the heart of city. A walk in the streets of Mattancherry
boasts about the vintage wood houses and Paradesi Synagogue in
Mattancherry that was built in 1568, which is today one of the oldest
synagogues in Asia.
Pardesi synagogue - Oldest synagogue in Asia
Vintage Jew Town
The Portuguese who eyed to establish
a base in Kerala on back of the spice trade tried to influence and get the
early Syrian Christians into their own cultural mould. The
Portuguese, led by Pedro Álvares Cabral (in 1500) and Vasco da Gama (1502) set
up colonial townships here. Fort Kochi therefore was under Portuguese rule for
160 years; they built huge mansions, churches and chapels to attract the local
Christian population to support them. A walk through the nooks and corners of
the sleepy little town would give you a slice of Portuguese influence. The old
structures are still in use like the St. Franchis Church , Vasco Homestay – in
which Vasco Da Gama is believed to have stayed and a few other adjoining Dutch bungalows
and mansions either home to generations of these Portuguese traders or
converted into hotels. The layers of colonial
influence that have been grafted onto the traditional tropical landscape can be
seen in the architecture of Fort Kochi. Likewise, the
Fort Kochi lifestyle got heavily influenced by Portuguese cuisine, traditions
and make merry attitude.
A vintage Bungalow in British Colony
St.Francis Church - The first burial place of Vasco Da Gama
The
Portuguese and Dutch were soon supplanted by the British who were scrambling
for dominance over this prized territory. Compared to rest of India, the
Britishers were a little more compassionate towards this coastal city. It
became a hot spot for the British officers to settle down with their families
as the region offered them favorable climate, religious freedom and cultural
liberty. They married local Christian and non-Christian ladies to seek an
alliance with the powerful Christian and hindu families and started a line.
This led to a total mishmash of Indo-European identity to the region. Hence,
many families in Fort Kochi have a mixed parentage.
The British rechristened
the streets of Fort Kochi with English names like Princess Street, Lilly Street,
and Napier Street, Rose Street to the roads here.
Napier streer
Princess Street
The locals smile in traditional Portuguese costume at Cochin Carnival
 
The biggest Christmas Tree of Fort Cochin - Veli Grounds
My
grandmother and elders in the family would narrate to me stories from the
memory lane on how Fort Kochi – home to Anglo Indian families and a European
way of life were known for its lively atmosphere. The nights would be regaled
with melodious sounds of piano, violins, English classics being played at the
beguiling balls and house parties. Many families like mine too, that have
migrated out of Fort Kochi still try to maintain their ‘Kochi’ way of life.
The Fort
Kochi scrumptious cuisine like Roasted Beef , Vindaloo, Fish Moilee, the Anglo
Malayalam, Maanglish or Fort Kochi Malayalam language (a variation of
traditional Malayalam) and culture although completely contrast with the rest
of Kerala yet has a identity that of its own.
The
amalgamation of all these colonial influences has made this mesmerizing coastal
city a confluence point for the east and the west. The next time you plan a
travel to Kerala, reckon the cultural uniqueness and prized legacy of this
beautiful city of Fort Kochi to EXPLORE..ENJOY and to live a piece of history.
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