3 Aug 2014

FORT KOCHI – PART OF KERALA YET DIFFERENT FROM THE REST

Kerala has always been known as a land of a lifetime. The distinctive culture, unspoiled tropical beauty, pristine backwaters of Allepy, relaxing Ayurvedic retreat centers and divine food have enchanted many visitors since ages. Located in the southern most part of India, the coastal state is rightly referred to as “God’s own country”. In particular, the whole of Kerala is commonly celebrated for its deep rooted cultural history, magnificent temple festivals, tranquility of backwaters, lush greenery of nature and world famous spices.
            
           

Kerala - God's Own Country
An expedition or holiday to Kerala always begins from the beautiful coastal city of Fort Kochi. Known as the ‘Gateway to Kerala’ the captivating coastal city, its towns and mini islands have always welcomed the guests with a surprise. What is the hidden surprise Fort Kochi offers? Well, it comes across as somewhat a surprise for first time visitors, as in how this small little city maintains an electric blend of Indo-European-Arab-Portuguese way of life till date.
The vibrancy of Fort Kochi and absolute distinctiveness has always caught my curious eye. As it also happens to be my native, the rich diversity and unique character has been easier to identify with. Growing up, my idea of a perfect muse for a geographical and cultural stimulant to explore was my native Fort Kochi. During the vacations, I would run back to Fort Kochi as it packed a perfect punch for me to be acquainted with new stories of its rich legacy. Since then whenever in Kochi, I always take time to comb the neighborhoods of Kochi for the Chinese fishing nets among other techniques, Portuguese styled bungalows, Anglo-Indian and Jew households, churches and villas tucked in the quaint bylanes.

The picturesque Portuguese styled villas

It has certainly taken time for me to understand the reason behind Fort Kochi’s individuality, but finally I do have a basic idea. Fort Kochi has a slightly complex history of influence and developments with every historian having a different version. The origins of Fort Kochi can be traced back to 700-650 years ago. Kerala had been trading in spice with Chinese, Arabs and Portuguese since time in memorial. In 1341 when Tsunami hit the trade activities of Kodungallur, the spice traders shifted base to Fort Kochi as the new centre for all shipping activities. Fort Cochin was a tiny fishing village by then. The huge fishing nets known as Cheena-vala (Chinese nets) are said to be built by Chinese as early as 14th century. Infact the name Cochin or Kochin too is derived from Chinese name Co-Chin which means like - China. 
 Chinese Fishing Nets - 'Cheena-vala'

Kerala and Fort Kochi were birthplace of Christianity in India; it has one of the early Christians of India and also the Arab Christians or Jewish Christians who had migrated to Kerala in early 5th-6th century. They brought with them their own set of Arab and Jewish traditions which later were incorporated into local Christian culture. The Jewish established a town called ‘Jew Town’ at Mattancherry. It was a town bustling with spice trade by prominent Jewish traders. The close-knit Jewish community established their very own niche in the heart of city. A walk in the streets of Mattancherry boasts about the vintage wood houses and Paradesi Synagogue in Mattancherry that was built in 1568, which is today one of the oldest synagogues in Asia.

Pardesi synagogue - Oldest synagogue in Asia


Vintage Jew Town

The Portuguese who eyed to establish a base in Kerala on back of the spice trade tried to influence and get the early Syrian Christians into their own cultural mould. The Portuguese, led by Pedro Álvares Cabral (in 1500) and Vasco da Gama (1502) set up colonial townships here. Fort Kochi therefore was under Portuguese rule for 160 years; they built huge mansions, churches and chapels to attract the local Christian population to support them. A walk through the nooks and corners of the sleepy little town would give you a slice of Portuguese influence. The old structures are still in use like the St. Franchis Church , Vasco Homestay – in which Vasco Da Gama is believed to have stayed and a few other adjoining Dutch bungalows and mansions either home to generations of these Portuguese traders or converted into hotels.  The layers of colonial influence that have been grafted onto the traditional tropical landscape can be seen in the architecture of Fort Kochi. Likewise, the Fort Kochi lifestyle got heavily influenced by Portuguese cuisine, traditions and make merry attitude.They introduced annual fest like the Cochin Carnival and Christmas celebrations at Veli grounds, which continue till today.

A vintage Bungalow in British Colony

St.Francis Church - The first burial place of Vasco Da Gama

The Portuguese and Dutch were soon supplanted by the British who were scrambling for dominance over this prized territory. Compared to rest of India, the Britishers were a little more compassionate towards this coastal city. It became a hot spot for the British officers to settle down with their families as the region offered them favorable climate, religious freedom and cultural liberty. They married local Christian and non-Christian ladies to seek an alliance with the powerful Christian and hindu families and started a line. This led to a total mishmash of Indo-European identity to the region. Hence, many families in Fort Kochi have a mixed parentage. 
The British rechristened the streets of Fort Kochi with English names like Princess Street, Lilly Street, and Napier Street, Rose Street to the roads here. 

 Napier streer


Princess Street

The locals smile in traditional Portuguese costume at Cochin Carnival

  Cochin Carnival
 The biggest Christmas Tree of Fort Cochin - Veli Grounds

My grandmother and elders in the family would narrate to me stories from the memory lane on how Fort Kochi – home to Anglo Indian families and a European way of life were known for its lively atmosphere. The nights would be regaled with melodious sounds of piano, violins, English classics being played at the beguiling balls and house parties. Many families like mine too, that have migrated out of Fort Kochi still try to maintain their ‘Kochi’ way of life. 

The Fort Kochi scrumptious cuisine like Roasted Beef , Vindaloo, Fish Moilee, the Anglo Malayalam, Maanglish or Fort Kochi Malayalam language (a variation of traditional Malayalam) and culture although completely contrast with the rest of Kerala yet has a identity that of its own.

The amalgamation of all these colonial influences has made this mesmerizing coastal city a confluence point for the east and the west. The next time you plan a travel to Kerala, reckon the cultural uniqueness and prized legacy of this beautiful city of Fort Kochi to EXPLORE..ENJOY and to live a piece of history.









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